Rating: 93.
De Kromme Watergang is a restaurant owned by husband and wife team Edwin and Blanche Vincke in Hoofdplaat in Zealand-Flanders. The couple established the restaurant, housed in a former nursery school, in 1993. De Kromme Watergang received its first Michelin star in 2005, a second star followed in 2011 (2012 guide). These days, the province of Zealand shows an attractive Michelin-starred landscape, with two 2-star restaurants and five 1-star restaurants. Until its closure in December 2013 Zealand was also the home of Sergio Herman's 3-star Oud Sluis. Before opening his own restaurant chef Edwin Vinke (b. 1967) worked for five years as a sous-chef at Oud Sluis, a kitchen run at the time by Sergio Herman's father Ronnie Herman.


De Kromme Watergang is open for lunch and dinner from Wednesday till Sunday. The restaurant offers an a la carte menu, a multi-course tasting menu (5 courses €95, 7 courses €125, 10 courses €160) and from Wednesday till Saturday they also have a special set lunch menu (2 courses for €40). I had lunch with my husband at De Kromme Watergang on Sunday 24 August 2014 and we both ordered the 10-course tasting menu.
* I was recognised

Lunch started with five amuse bouches. First to arrive was a juicy Gillardeau oyster with a garden Angelica crème, accompanied by a foamy and sweet Gin & Tonic flavoured with garden Angelica. This was followed by carrot flower tempura served with crème fraîche, seasoned with carrot greens, and small bowl of clams, served with finely chopped cucumber, cucumber sorbet and a sesame foam (no photograph).


Then there was a cold mussel mousse, shaped into a mussel, garnished with lemon gem flowers and leaves, and served on a some lightly toasted bread crumbs. Finally there were two soups: a thick and creamy Tom Kha Kai soup with small pieces of chicken and a chicken skin crisp, and a creamy and foamy brown shrimp soup, mildly flavoured with coffee and served with a brown shrimp shell cracker. A wonderful selection and an original choice of amuse bouches, the two soups being my absolutes favourites, the Tom Kha Kai had lovely, elegant touch of heat, and the brown shrimp soup had great depth of flavour. I was less impressed with the mussel mousse, that was served (perhaps intentionally) almost frozen.


First course of the tasting menu a Northsea crab cocktail, served with textures of sorrel (mousse, iced crumble and a chilled crème), a light Marie Rose sauce and pickled rat-tailed radish. A lot was happening in the cocktail glass but the end result was a wonderful balance of richness and freshness and a lovely interplay of temperatures and textures. Great intensity from the lightly dressed fresh crab, complemented by the warmth of the Marie Rose sauce, and the pickled rat-tailed radish added lovely crisp crunch and acidity to the dish.


Next up were two succulent and meaty langoustines (served in the shell), the meat having lovely gentle caramelisation on it, served with a smooth beetroot ice cream, fresh leaves, gooseberry gel, and marinated beetroot. Hidden underneath the leaves was a foie gras crème, and a small piece of wonderfully caramelised and slightly crunchy chicory, that had fantastic coffee-like flavours. A well-balanced dish with attractive, rich and sweet flavours, and the right level of acidity.


Third course was a superb piece of beautifully moist gurnard with a light citrus dressing spooned over, and served with soft and crunchy couscous, grilled artichoke, a juicy skinned cherry tomato, and a few dots of artichoke and anchovy mayonnaise. The gurnard is first cooked in hay, then briefly grilled skin-side, the former preparation adding a lovely touch of smokiness to the fish. Lovely bitters and acidity from the citrus dressing and the artichoke-anchovy mayonnaise delivered nice, mildy salty flavours. A delightful combination of flavours and textures, the artichoke complementing the gurnard perfectly.


Equally good was the next course of young cod (briefly cured, then slow-cooked), lightly marinated razor clam tartare served in the shell, creamy potato puree, a piece of tender potato, a nice and sharp lemon Hollandaise, a light samphire foam and a green sauce made from sea vegetables. A carefully constructed dish with precise, clean flavours. Loved the distinctiveness and texture of young cod, it's intensity counterbalanced beautifully by the creamy and buttery lemon Hollandaise. The samphire foam delivered a lovely salty sea tang to the dish.


On the the fifth course. Slow-cooked tender Pieterman (Weever), served with cockels, barbequed stem lettuce, a green courgette string and a delicious creamy sauce flavoured with miso and coriander seeds. The weever had a lovely, elegant butteriness to it and the sauce added a nice umami kick to the dish. Spectacularly plump cockles, the juiciest and most flavoursome I have ever tasted. An absolutely wonderful dish.


Sixth course, lobster paired with a lobster sauce, that had been delicately flavoured with harissa, and served with caramelised onion and some crunchy beans. Beautifully made sauce with full-bodied, pure, intricate lobster flavours and a nice touch of heat in the aftertaste. An impeccable dish with a lovely variety of textures and great purity.


Before the main course we wer eserved a refreshing and palate-cleansing lemon gem sorbet (no photograph).

Seventh and main course: pigeon, served with a fantastic pure and intense pigeon jus, textures of carrot (including a delicious, mildly sweet carrot puree), ceps and kohlrabi. Perfectly cooked tender pigeon with lovely, gamey flavours and a hint of smokiness, and the addition of the carrot brought a nice mild sweetness to the dish. The pigeon leg meat was served on the side (no photograph), accompanied by a liver crème and goat milk yoghurt, creating a wonderful combination of flavours.


The meal continued with three desserts. First to arrive was an attractively presented dessert, comprised of a lemon cream topped with a garden herb granita, "platte kaas" (in this case Fromage Blanc) flavoured with garden herbs and garnished with a courgette flower, and a slice of toasted buttermilk bread covered with homemade butter. A lovely combination that struck a good balance between freshness and comfort.


Second dessert and ninth course was a sake 'baba' served with a delicious shiso ice cream and accompanied by a mascarpone, wasabi and matcha green tea chocolate.


Last course was a dessert of white chocolate and rose. There was a white chocolate (Columbian) crème base topped with a rosé champagne sorbet, two types of rose crème (one with a gel-like texture and one with a more creamy texture) and some rose meringues. An extremely elegant dessert, both in flavour and in presentation, and the different textures delivered a lovely variety of flavour intensities.


De Kromme Watergang has a loyal following in both Belgium and the Netherlands and it is easy to see why. This is a very personal cuisine built on the diversity of fish/seafood and sea vegetables and their unique flavours. There's a strong emphasis on local (sustainable) ingredients and this is a heart-felt philosphy: "In my kitchen I will only use fish that is offered on the local fish market, like sole, turbot, brill, ... plaice, skate etc. I will not allow salmon or tuna enter my kitchen, it goes against my principles, we have plenty of varieties in our own area'" (Edwin Vinke in his book 'Zilte Klei' ('Salty Clay'), translated from the Dutch original). Vinke sources his ultra-fresh ingredients from a line of local and loyal producers, including his father-in-law who supplies his fish.

De Kromme Watergang offers creative and skilled cooking and Edwin Vinke's sound understanding of ingredients allows him to put uncommon ingredients on the menu. When did you last see Weever on the menu? Sea vegetables, herbs and flowers are used to clever effect; they bring a pleasant lightness and freshness to his dishes, making them very easy to eat. Blanche Vinke and her team, including the very knowledgeable sommelier Mike Doorns, offer excellent and friendly service. Its location means that for many people De Kromme Watergang is a detour, but it is well worth it.