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The Dining Room at The Goring in London - 1 Michelin star

Rating: 91.
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In the latest edition of the Michelin guide for Great Britain & Ireland, The Dining Room at The Goring was awarded a Michelin star, the first star in the history of the hotel. The Goring Hotel was established by Otto Goring in 1910 and has been run by the Goring family ever since. The hotel is now managed by Jeremy Goring, the fourth generation. In 2011 The Goring became world-famous when the Duchess of Cambridge stayed at the hotel the night before her wedding to Prince William. Executive chef since October 2013 has been Shay Cooper, who previously was head chef at The Bingham Hotel in Richmond, London.  

(courtesy of The Goring)

The Dining Room is open daily for breakfast and dinner, and for lunch Sunday through Friday. At lunch and dinner you can choose dishes from the a la carte menu (3 courses lunch £45, £50 on Sundays - 3 courses dinner £56.50 ), and there are special dishes on offer for a supplement. I had lunch at The Dining Room on Sunday 22 November 2015. We ordered 3 courses from the lunch menu plus one extra dish.

My starter was a refined dish of skillfully cooked plaice, perfectly tender squid noodles, and a juicy red prawn, around which a "Cornish fish broth" was poured. The broth had a velvety potage-like texture with very elegant fish flavours and was delicately seasoned with orange. Also on the plate was some potato and a saffron mayonnaise, which complemented the other flavours wonderfully. 


Next was Eggs Drumkilbo, one of the special dishes on the a la carte menu. Eggs or Oeufs Drumkilbo have been on the menu at The Goring for many years. This posh 'prawn cocktail meets eggs mayonnaise' dish is one of the favourite dishes of the Royal Family. It was the first course on the wedding breakfast menu of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson and the late Queen Mum was particularly fond of this dish. It is said that the Queen Mum has savoured a number of Eggs Drumkilbo during her regular visits to The Goring.
 
The Goring's current interpretation of Eggs Drumkilbo could best be described as Eggs Drumkilbo 2.0. Fresh white crab meat and chopped prawns were mixed with hard boiled egg yolk, tomato and créme fraîche. On top of this delicious mixture were two pieces of succulent lobster, halved soft quail's eggs, very thinly sliced radish, little cubes of cucumber, green apple, clear tomato jelly, caviar, and garnished with fresh baby leaves and herbs. Some thin and ultra-crisp toast was served on the side. A beautifully presented dish with superb shellfish. Flavours were sophisticated with a wonderful balance between richness and freshness. 
 
 
My main course was a glazed lobster omelette with duck fat chips and a lobster Caesar salad. Beautifully cooked omelette, which was delicate and fluffy with wonderfully tender pieces of lobster meat in it. The chips were exquisite, golden brown and perfectly crisp, as they should be. A delightfully rich dish, the lobster Caesar delivering a nice touch of lightness. 
 



Before dessert we shared some cheese. The Goring proudly offers a magnificent all-British cheese board. 


Dessert was a polished take on Black Forest gâteau. There was a dark chocolate, cherry jam and milk chocolate mousse delice, a delicious and pure cherry sorbet, some chocolate crumbs, sweet preserved cherries and a small quenelle of whipped cream. An attractively presented dessert with all the characteristic Black Forest gâteau flavours elegantly incorporated.


 

As you would expect from a British institution like The Goring Hotel, The Dining Room is very much about fine dining, classical cooking and familiar flavours, and on Sundays a traditional carving trolley with roast beef is proudly paraded around the room. And there's nothing wrong with that. In fact, good classical cooking has become so rare these days. In the latest season of Masterchef: The Professionals we have all witnessed baffling skills tests, including a disastrous Omelette Arnold Bennett test. I guess that's why you rarely see an omelette on the menu in restaurants these days. Did you know that Marco Pierre White used to have an Omelette Arnold Bennett on the menu at Mirabelle? Today's lobster omelette was a true delight. The kitchen at The Goring produces very enjoyable dishes with indulgent and sophisticated flavours, all executed with skill and finesse. Both the food and service today were impeccable.




The Dining Room at The Goring
Beeston Place
London



Posted 13-01-2016




 
 
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